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KlimBeta is designed for Setters

A Wikipedia of SetterBETA

BETA which only which is only performed by Setters

Klimbers don't need to know how to use a ladder or impact driver.

Only Setters need to know the best way to strip a wall or how to use a grinder to remove a Plast which is stuck on the wall.

Each of the ELEMENTs and BETOMs only used by Setters have a page which contains:

  • Definitions of the ELEMENT or BETOM

  • Images of the ELEMENT or BETOM

  • Links between pages

  • Element Graph, which shows how the ELEMENTs and BETOMs relate to each other.

  • A See Also section at the bottom of the page for

  • A list of examples of the ELEMENT or BETOM within the Database of BETA

Database of BETA

  • Tagged
  • Labelled

KlimBeta increases the accessibility for Inexperienced Setters

Allow Klimbers to practice thinking like a setter without any financial risk.

Low Stakes practice. To allow novice setters to gain setting experience before their first setting opportunity, since opportunities are rare and can be costly to gyms if a setter's first route must be stripped and reset.

Practicing the skills required for setting, before you set your first route.

To make up for the social exclusivity of Setting.

Polykrome Route

  • Practice selecting Plasts of more than one Route to create a novel Polykrome Route
  • Select Plasts from a SprayWall to create your own Route

Setting Games

Most Klimbers don't play games, they only climb routes.

  • TakeAway
  • Add On
  • Setting

How to use power tools

Be familiar with how impact drivers work.

It take a few seconds to show how to change the rotational direction of impact drivers, which can save minutes in class.

KlimBeta for Setter Instructors

All Setter Instructors are Experienced Setters.

Lesson Plans

To give Setter Instructors resources to work from.

The Lesson Plans will be honed over time as they are reused.

Setter Instructors don't need to start from scratch each time.

Standardized

Tasks for Student Setters

  • Recreate this BETA

    • The BETA must be defined to be recreated
    • BETA from a video needs to be analyzed (understood, perceived) before it can be recreated.
  • Set a specific BETA

  • Set a specific BETOM

  • Set a specific ELEMENT

  • Set a Route which favors Klimber type

    • Tall person BETA
    • Short person BETA
    • Child BETA
  • Modify this Route

    • Change the current Route to force a different type of Beta
      • Rotate a Plast
      • Relocate a Plast

SetUp

Visuals

  • Diagrams
    • Whiteboard
    • Handouts

Instructions

  • What are the optimal ways to phrase things?

KlimBeta for Experienced Setters

In KlimBeta, the word "setter" is used instead of "routesetter", because Setters set more than just Routes.

A SprayWall is not a Route!

Klimber Training camps often consist of Setting with the intention to only practice individual Aktions

Break the language Barrier

By having visuals ELEMENTs, BETOMs and BETAs enables Setters who don't speak the same language to non verbally collaborate.

You can show your collaborator what you're talking about instead of explaining things as ideas get lost in translation.

Composition

Beethoven didn't always have an orchestra with him while he was composing. He could hear the music in his head, then he transferred it to paper, then it was played.

Setters can do the same thing with KlimBeta, they can compose routes in their minds outside of the gym, so when they do get the chance to set, it will be more efficient since they'll already have some or all of the Route planned out.

Set a Room, Set a Gym

A goal for KlimBeta is for a Setter to compose a whole room or gym, where each routes can be a part in a larger whole, similar to how art exhibitions are composed of individual pieces (routes), which are placed within a room and the rooms are ultimately combined into an emergent exhibition (gym).

The Klimber could experience a sequence of Routes, not just a sequence of Plasts.

  • A variation on a Theme

    • The whole room could have a theme
  • Juxtaposition of Routes

    • Compression Route vs. Stemming Route
    • Power Endurance Route vs. Delicate Slab Route
    • Overhang vs. Slab
  • Narrative

    • The routes could follow a narrative
  • Non vertical Route

    • A long traverse across the whole room

Setting multiple routes at once to compose an emergent whole is already possible, Setters do this when they set bouldering competition rounds. KlimBeta reduces the cognitive load required, by allowing Setters to record their ideas with BETAGLYFs instead of having to remember them.

Avant-Garde: The Future of Climbing goes beyond just Routes

In the future, Setters will be able to set Walls which facilitate dancing.

See Betatlon for more information on novel ways to climb.


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