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Factors to induce CognitiveEase: ​

ClarityEase ​

  • TicMark
  • ChalkSmear
  • CrackSystem
  • RouteLine.ClarityEase((WallCorner, WallCrack) < (“Zigzag on FaceWall”))

GoodEase ​

“On a roll”

RepetitionEase ​

  • RepeatedPhrase

    • Climber performs a Phrase so many times that they no longer need to consciously think about what they’re doing

      “On autopilot”

      “My brain just shut off”

      “I went into full blackout mode”

  • RehearsedMovement

PrimingEase ​

  • Miming
    • SpeedClimbing

CognitiveEase is Perceived by: ​

Quote ​

“Easy”

“Easier”

“Easiest”

FeelsTrue ​

  • Correct
  • Right
  • True

“That [Movement, Phrase, Sequence] feels like it will work”

FeelsEffortless ​

  • Efficient
  • Elegant
  • FlowState

“Flowing up the route”

“Flying up the route”

FeelsGood ​

  • Comfortable

“In your comfort zone”

“Within your climbing ability limit”

“That felt good”

Joy

“Feels fun”

“Feels amusing”

  • Amusement

FeelsFamiliar ​

  • HomeGymAdvantage
  • Analogy

“I’ve done a similar movement to this before”

Thinking Fast and Slow ​

System 1 (Fast Thinking) ​

Characteristics of System 1 (Fast Thinking) ​

  • ThinkingFastAndSlow page 105
  • generates impressions, feelings, and inclinations; when endorsed by System 2 these become beliefs, attitudes, and intentions
  • operates automatically and quickly, with little or no effort, and no sense of voluntary control
  • can be programmed by System 2 to mobilize attention when a particular pattern is detected (search)
  • executes skilled responses and generates skilled intuitions, after adequate training
  • creates a coherent pattern of activated ideas in associative memory
  • links a sense of cognitive ease to illusions of truth, pleasant feelings, and reduced vigilance
  • distinguishes the surprising from the normal
  • infers and invents causes and intentions
  • neglects ambiguity and suppresses doubt
  • is biased to believe and confirm exaggerates emotional consistency (halo effect)
  • focuses on existing evidence and ignores absent evidence (WYSIATI) generates a limited set of basic assessments
  • represents sets by norms and prototypes, does not integrate
  • matches intensities across scales (e.g., size to loudness)
  • computes more than intended (mental shotgun)
  • sometimes substitutes an easier question for a difficult one (heuristics)
  • is more sensitive to changes than to states (prospect theory)* overweights low probabilities*
  • shows diminishing sensitivity to quantity (psychophysics)*
  • responds more strongly to losses than to gains (loss aversion)*
  • frames decision problems narrowly, in isolation from on another”

Examples of System 1 (Fast Thinking) ​

  • Determine that an object is at a greater distance than another

  • Localize the source of a specific sound

  • Complete the phrase "war and ..."

  • Display disgust when seeing a gruesome image

  • Solve 2+2=?

  • Read text on a billboard

  • Drive a car on an empty road

  • Think of a good chess move (if you're a chess master)

  • Understand simple sentences

  • Associate the description 'quiet and structured person with an eye for details' with a specific job

  • CoordinationMoto

    • RapidCognition
    • ReflexMovement
    • ContactStrength
    • HandCatch
    • FootCatch

  • Intuition

    • OnsightAttempt

System 2 (Slow Thinking) ​

Definition(Deliberate)

  • To think about or discuss issues and decisions carefully.

Lazy Controller

  • Complacency
  • Substitution
    • Thinking about hand placement instead of TorsoPosition, ShoulderPosition, ElbowPosition. Deadpoints rely on the Proprioceptive ability to attain optimal BodyPosition more than Muscle or Acceleration.
      • ClimberPosition = Requires(Proprioception)
      • (“Optimization of movement” < MotoIntensity(++))CognitiveEase\MotoComplexityLow
        • Increasing MotoIntensity is a cognitive action.

Examples of System 2 ​

  • Prepare yourself for the start of a sprint

  • Direct your attention towards the clowns at the circus

  • Direct your attention towards someone at a loud party

  • Look for the woman with the grey hair

  • Try to recognize a sound

  • Sustain a faster-than-normal walking rate

  • Determine the appropriateness of a particular behavior in a social setting

  • Count the number of A's in a certain text

  • Give someone your telephone number

  • Park into a tight parking space

  • Determine the price/quality ratio of two washing machines

  • Determine the validity of a complex logical reasoning

  • Solve 17 × 24

  • BETATHLONlexity

  • RouteRedHerring

WYSIATI ​

What You See Is All There Is

HiddenHold

Onsight

I didn't even know that was possible until I saw you do it